Elements of StyleH. Haveman
According to archeologists’ findings, people have been adorning themselves with jewelry for thousands of years. Ornate stones and shells found among tools for cooking and farming suggest that mere survival was not the only thing of importance in the lives of Native ancestors. It’s clear that bracelets, necklaces and earrings haven’t gone out of fashion, but neither have they provided any kind of necessity for living. Jewelry is shiny, but does not give warmth; it is dazzling to behold, but does not fill the stomach. And yet, the elements that make up these ornamentations and the process with which they’re constructed are, and have been, central to the Native cultures of the Southwest for many years.
Turquoise is a dominant element in Southwestern jewelry. Not only are the various shades of blues and greens unusually beautiful, but the stone has deep meaning in the Navajo culture. Wearers of turquoise are believed to be recognized by the Holy People; the material invites the Defender. Similarly, silver invites Prosperity to those who adorn it. White shell, abalone, and jet, along with turquoise represent the four Sacred Mountains, the four directions and the values that they represent. These, among other precious stones, are used in ceremonies, as well as in jewelry.
The Navajo have been working with silver for the past 150 years, a relatively short time. During the centuries prior to that, the peoples of the Southwest lived in close association, sharing ideas and influencing one another’s cultures. Many knowledgeable sources agree that Atsidi Sani or “Old Smith” was the first Navajo silversmith, having learned the trade in the 1850s from Spanish and Mexican silverworkers. It is thought that the craft was more widely adopted during the Navajo interment at Ft. Sumner (1864-1868). Objects like coins and buttons were fashioned out of any available metal.
Today, metalsmithing, as it pertains to jewelry, is an ever-evolving art form. Jewelry artists have passed down their knowledge and techniques through the generations. There are more women in the field now and youngsters eager to learn the skills. Many artists still hold to the traditional beliefs throughout the jewelry-making process, leaving a “way out” in the motif and working counter-clockwise on each piece. And while the classic designs are still used, some artists are pushing the limits of what seems possible. One artist described working with metal as working with butter, simply reacting to its fluid movements.
The Navajo Nation Museum recently celebrated the opening of its “Silver Stars” exhibition, a showcase of jewelry and adornments masterfully created by some of the best silversmiths in the Southwest and world at large. The collection consists of approximately 200 pieces from over 85 Navajo and other Native artists. It is a well-designed display of strikingly beautiful jewelry, amazing talent, and the evolution of silversmithing through time.
Museum staff worked for about six months with the community, artists and collectors, in order to research, plan, and organize the exhibit. The quality of the mounting and custom-made display cases is top-notch. Museum Director, Manuelito Wheeler, worked previously at the Heard Museum for ten years and remarks, “This exhibit can run with the big dogs.”
Important and unique to the Navajo Nation Museum is the telling of the Navajo story to the Navajo people, in their own words. By offering an exhibit, such as this, many who would not otherwise have the opportunity are able to take in and appreciate the jewelry without having to travel to a major show or Indian market where pieces of this caliber would normally be for sale or on display. Museum curator, Clarenda Begay, acknowledges a feeling of great pride in the Navajo culture, which demonstrates such ingenuity and creativity.
Located a short distance from Gallup, in Window Rock, Arizona, this exhibit is not the only one that merits a visit to the Navajo Nation Museum. “Hwéeldi Baa Hane’: Our Stories of Fort Sumner” portrays over three-hundred years of history, from the Spanish conquest of New Mexico to Hwéeldi, Long Walk, and how it has impacted Diné life up until now. While there are many accounts of The Long Walk, this unique exhibit tells the story firsthand, from a Navajo perspective. Additionally, “Through the Lens: Photography by Diné” is the first juried photography invitational for Navajo photographers. Due to popularity, this exhibit has been extended to July 26, 2010.
Don’t miss the chance to experience part of the Navajo story! The Navajo Nation Museum is located in Window Rock, Arizona at Highway 264 and Loop Road. Admission to the museum is free. Summer hours are Monday 8am-5pm, Tuesday through Friday 8am-7pm, Saturday 9am-5pm, closed Sundays and holidays. |
